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Whenever compiling a ranking of London’s finest eateries, one might anticipate well-known award-winning venues. Yet, tucked near the top among these gastronomic heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu found in a outlying corner of northern London.

A Unexpected Honour

This little Turkish restaurant, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the 4th best restaurant in the metropolis by a respected culinary publication. The honour has left the owners totally surprised.

“I’m utterly surprised,” remarks the family member, pointing to his parents’ dedication that resulted in their small shop securing such a lofty spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

This small shop, which was a basic cafe before its change into a sought-after food hotspot, has maintained much of its earlier feel. It seats just more than 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking display, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy spot,” says the owner.

The Star Dish: Tantuni

However, it is all about the fare, and this eatery certainly delivers. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a tender consistency.

The meat is then thrown into a large pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. Once the meaty mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to absorb all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is folded securely inside.

It is usually enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a mighty punch of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A prominent food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, giving it a deeper, nuttier and more balanced flavour.

Outranking the Giants

Remarkably, this modest spot has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place full for less than £25, comparable tasting menus at top-tier establishments can run into many times that price.

The Creed of Heart

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is located well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I don’t subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is hospitality, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is supported by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he were in a position of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London visit this spot as a masterclass, to show them the traps of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

The Journey of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not work at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel really happy of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum would be very tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a social life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

An Achievement for the People

This restaurant’s accolade is likely to resonate outside its own walls. “I think numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the greater meaning of this culinary achievement.